top of page

Chestnuts in the Erruting qunfang pu 二如亭群芳譜 pt.2

以兩栗蘸油,兩栗蘸水置鍋中,周圍更排四十七個,濕紙搭蓋,慢火燒,候有雷聲即熟。

Dip two chestnuts in oil and two in water before placing [them] in a pot. Line up another 47 chestnuts around [them]. Lightly cover the pot with wet paper and simmer gently. [The chestnuts] are ready when there are thundering sounds.[1]


大栗每個殼底以刀十字畫開,底向下逐旋排鍋中,以鹽一撮繞鍋撒下,盖定發火,候熟取用。

Carve a cross on the bottom of every big chestnut. Line [them] up in a spiral in a pot, with the bottom facing down. Sprinkle a pinch of salt along the side of the pot. Put the lid on, start the fire, wait until [they] are cooked and then take [them] out.


選底平可作對者二枚,一枚香油塗濕底,一枚白水塗濕底,合作一對置鍋底,當中取栗逐旋盖上,多亦不妨。將鍋盖嚴,燒一飯頃取出,俱酥熟且不粘殼。

Select two chestnuts with flat bottoms that can make a pair. Spread sesame oil on the bottom of one of them and plain water on the bottom of the other. Put the pair on the bottom of a pot. Take [more] chestnuts to line up in a spiral in the pot, covering [the original two]. Don’t hesitate to use plenty [of chestnuts]. Tightly cover the pot with a lid, simmer for the length of a meal, and take [them] out. [They will] all be soft and well done without sticking to the shell.


又法:入油紙撚一條炒,不用鐵鍋尤妙。栗炒熟搗爛晒乾磨細,每六升新糯米粉四升白沙糖半斤蜜水溲之,篩置甑中,隨畫開蒸粉熟為度,火炙為糕。

Yet another method: add in a length of twisted oilpaper[2] to stir-fry [with the chestnuts]. It is particularly good [with cookware] other than iron woks.[3] When the chestnuts are done, mash and sun-dry [them] before grinding [the dried mash] into fine powder. For every six litres[4] [of powdered chestnut], use four litres of fresh glutinous rice powder and half a litre of granulated sugar. Soak [all ingredients] in honey water. Run [the paste] through a sieve into a steamer. Steam [the paste] until it seems cooked through wherever cut open, [and then] roast [it] to make a cake.[5]


栗木作門關,可以遠盜。

Door bars made of chestnut wood can keep burglars away.


* From Wang Xiangjin 王象晉 (1561-1653), Erruting qunfang pu 二如亭群芳譜 (preface dated 1621), “guopu” 果譜, 3.47b-48a.


[1] The earliest account of this method is found in the Southern Song recipe book Shanjia qinggong 山家清供 compiled by Lin Hong 林洪 (fl. 12th century), under the entry leigong li 雷公栗 (Lord of Thunder’s Chestnuts). Lin Hong heard of this method from a friend. After his first attempt using an iron pot, he found it superior to the sand-frying method. See https://ctext.org/library.pl?if=en&file=83896&page=79. A modern demonstration can be found here: https://youtu.be/2z5DKFGwUmE. [2] Youzhi nian 油紙捻 (twisted oilpaper) is made by twisting strips of dried oilpaper and used as a temporary light or a lighter. [3] Preferred utensils suggested by parallel texts include shadiao 沙銚 (clay pot) and yundou 熨斗 (iron); see, for example, Jujia biyong shilei quanji 居家必用事類全集: https://ctext.org/library.pl?if=en&file=37149&page=72. [4] One sheng 升 corresponded to one litre at the time. [5] A modern adaptation of this recipe can be found here: https://youtu.be/zCQcUWEJEgc.


"Les marrons" (1819–20) by Jean Charles Develly at Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum

Drawing, Design for a Painted Porcelain Plate, Les Marrons (Chestnuts) for the Service des Objets de Dessert (Dessert Service); Company: Sèvres Porcelain Manufactory (France); France; pen and brown, black ink, brush and brown, black wash, white gouache, red crayon, graphite on tan paper mounted on blue-gray paper; 10.5 cm (4 1/8 in.), diameter; Museum purchase through gift of James Amster; 1989-13-17 (http://cprhw.tt/o/2DuJP/)

 

Copyright Declaration*:


The texts and images used on the website of Rachelle's Lab are either from the public domain (e.g. Wikipedia), databases with open data licenses (e.g. Shuhua diancang ziliao jiansuo xitong 書畫典藏資料檢索系統, National Palace Museum, Taipei), online libraries that permit reasonable use (e.g. ctext.org), or original work created for this website.


Although fair use of the website for private non-profit purposes is permitted, please note that the website of Rachelle's Lab and its content (including but not limited to translations, blog posts, images, videos, etc.) are protected under international copyright law. If you want to republish, distribute, or make derivative work based on the website content, please contact me, the copyright owner, to get written permission first and make sure to link to the corresponding page when you use it.


版權聲明:


本站所使用的圖片,皆出自公有領域(如維基)、開放數據庫(如臺北故宮博物院書畫典藏資料檢索系統)、允許合理引用的在線圖書館(如中國哲學電子化計劃)及本人創作。本站允許對網站內容進行個人的、非營利性質的合理使用。但請注意,本站及其內容(包括但不限於翻譯、博文、圖像、視頻等)受國際版權法保護。如需基於博客內容進行出版、傳播、製作衍生作品等,請務必先徵求作者(本人)書面許可,并在使用時附上本站鏈接,註明出處。


*Read more about copyright and permission here.


0 comments

Recent Posts

See All

Comments


bottom of page