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豬蹄四法Four methods of cooking pig’s feet

蹄膀一隻,不用爪,白水煮爛,去湯;好酒一斤,清醬酒杯半、陳皮一錢、紅棗四五個煨爛。起鍋時,用葱椒酒潑入,去陳皮、紅棗,此一法也。

Take one knuckle, no hoof, and simmer in water until tender. Discard the liquid. Stew with one jin of good liquor, one and a half cups of light soy sauce,[1] a little dried mandarin orange peel, and four or five jujubes until [all] is thoroughly cooked. Before serving, sprinkle liquor [infused with] green onions and Sichuan pepper,[2] and remove the dried mandarin orange peel and jujubes. This is the first method.


又一法:先用蝦米煎湯代水,加酒、秋油煨之。

Another method: prepare shrimp stock instead of water, stew the knuckle [in the stock] with added liquor and autumn soy sauce.[3]


又一法:用蹄膀一隻,先煮熟,用素油灼皺其皮,再加作料紅煨。有土人好先掇食其皮,號稱揭單被。

Another method: take a knuckle and cook it until well done. Dip in simmering plain oil until the skin is wrinkled, and then braise with spices and seasonings. Some villagers like to eat the skin first, calling [this action] ‘lifting the quilt’.


又一法:用蹄膀一個,兩缽合之,加酒、加秋油,隔水蒸之,以二枝香為度,號神仙肉。錢觀察家製最精。

Another method: take a knuckle and enclose it in two bowls; add cooking wine and autumn soy sauce and steam it for [the burning time of] two incense sticks.[4] [This is] called ‘meat for the immortals’, the house of Surveillance [Commissioner] Qian makes it with utmost sophistication.

 

* From Yuan Mei 袁枚 (1716-1798), Suiyuan shidan 隨園食單 (annotated by Zhou Sanjin 周三金 et al.; Beijing: Zhongguo shangye chubanshe, 1984), 49; also: https://ctext.org/library.pl?if=en&file=33425&page=58.

 

[1] The term qingjiangjiu 清醬酒 (light soy sauce cooking wine) could be a mistake for qingjiangyou 清醬油 (light soy sauce); see, for example, the Suiyuan shidan edition annotated by Bie Xi 別曦 (Xi’an: San Qin chubanshe, 2005), 70.

[2] An alternative reading is “sprinkle green onions, Sichuan pepper (or chillies), and cooking wine”.

[3] Qiuyou 秋油 (autumn soy sauce) is the first batch of soy sauce collected in autumn, after exposing the fermented soybeans to summer heat for about a month; see Wang Shixiong 王士雄 (1808-1867), Suixiju yinshipu 隨息居飲食譜 (Xi’an: San Qin chubanshe, 2005; annotated by Liu Zhuqin 劉築琴), 93 (text also available at https://ctext.org/wiki.pl?if=en&chapter=728731#p482, but with a few missing characters).

[4] About 1.5 to 2 hours.


Album leaf by Wang Su 王素 (1794-1877)

Image credit: National Palace Museum, Taipei


 

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